As a preventive measure I went ahead and changed out the radiator at my last timing belt service so it is no longer in my block.įirst off, I'm sorry to hijack the topic here but I hope this is somewhat relevant. I ran it for two years with no adverse effects. At that time the Bar’s Liquid Aluminum was consistently the highest rated as well as completely compatible with the G, G+, G++ type of coolant. I spent quite a few hours reading reviews, technical data sheets, forum feedback and any other information I could find. I also didn’t recommend anything other than the one particular product that I linked. I would not try to fix anything like a leaking hose connection or a water pump shaft seal. As I stated back in 2009 when I started this thread I did not recommend using this product for anything other than a leak from a “fixed” component connection such as a radiator end cap. Is this worth a shot?The first thing you need to do is to determine the source of the leak. Nothing outrageous, but I can smell the burning coolant. I've got a 3.0 and am definitely leaking coolant. Sounds to me like you rad fan isn't runningīumping this thread. While moving the air flow cools down the radiator. I don't see how they're related, but I figured I'd throw that in just in case.Does your cooling fan turn on? Your fan should kick on once it gets hot enough at idle. I don't see how they're related, but I figured I'd throw that in just in case.Īlso, the 45 minute drive I took was to go to a shop to do a TDI 5th gear mod, that's where I replace my 0.83 5th gear for a 0.71 5th gear from a TDI transmission. What would be causing this, and did the stop leak have anything to do with it?Īlso, the 45 minute drive I took was to go to a shop to do a TDI 5th gear mod, that's where I replace my 0.83 5th gear for a 0.71 5th gear from a TDI transmission. Drive off again and things go back to normal. Now the car cools fine and blows hot air from the HVAC when its driving under a load above 2500 rpm's, but as soon as it stops for idle, the air gets cool and after long enough, the engine temp goes up. Reinstalled everything and took it for a test drive. I even looked into the engine block to verify the metal water pump impeller was still in tact and turned when the engine was cranked. (Boiling water = 100*C, thermostat opens at 87*C, I didn't have a thermometer to see what exact temp the thermostat opened, but it defiantly opened at boiling point.). I immediately thought the stop leak may have made the thermostat stick intermittently so I removed it and tested it in boiling water, everything tested fine. (I have already replaced the water pump with the ECS kit with metal impeller pump and new thermostat.) at first the lower radiator hose was cool, but after letting the car sit for a few minutes, the lower hose got warm so I started he car and everything seemed normal.drove home the rest of the way with no problems. This is exactly what happened when my water pump went out 3 months ago. The drive there was fine, but on the way back about 30 minutes into the drive, the temp gauge started rising and the low coolant light came on. I thought it was a success at first, until the next day when I drove about 45 minutes away. At first when I put it in, the coolant leak seemed to stop and the white smoke from the tailpipe cleared up. So I have some good news and some bad news about the Liqui Moly Stop Leak.
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